You’re going to be a Grandma!
Ok, not exactly, but if your rabbit is pregnant and if it’s been confirmed either through one of the methods described in our post here you’re bound to be super excited about the arrival of those beautiful little kits!
There’s no doubt that you haven’t got long to wait until the happy arrival, after all a rabbits gestation period is usually just 31-33 days!
Your female is probably being pretty antisocial as she frantically prepares her nest ready for her babies. She may currently be acting a little out of character with you but don’t take it to heart, it’s nothing personal, her hormones are all over the place. Pregnant rabbits need a lot of care and support to make it to term successfully and luckily there’s plenty you can do to help ensure her pregnancy goes smoothly (and with the least stress possible!).
So here are some of the main points to think about…..
Give Her Some Space
There’s no getting away from it, now your doe is pregnant she needs room so the first very important thing to do as soon as you know that your doe is pregnant is to separate her from any other rabbits.
Of course it’s difficult to split up a bonded pair. If they are house rabbits you’ve probably routinely observed them grooming and showing their affection for each other, playfully chasing each other around or generally spending every waking moment they can in each other’s company.
However your doe is going to be agitated enough even without anyone encroaching on her territory, if she’s bonded to a male bunny the last thing she needs is him using her newly prepared nest as his litter area.
Aside from space, removal of any males is also important due to you females anatomy. A buck will follow their natural mating instincts and will likely continue to try to hump her regardless of whether she is pregnant or not.
Doe’s are capable of carrying two litters (being impregnated twice) so it’s not uncommon to have separate litters from the same doe two weeks apart! However, while they are capable of doing so, carrying two litters can be dangerous for them.
With the largest single rabbit litter ever recorded being 24 kits, it’s easy to see how rabbits get their reputation as prolific breeders and realise that even a relatively small litter (the average litter is actually around 6) can be quite a handful! (especially for mum who will need to provide all that milk).
As much as we love rabbits (we’d love the world to be a rabbit utopia!) unless you are breeding for meat (something we would never advocate) careless rabbit breeding should be avoided.
Selling baby bunnies while not difficult given how cute they are sometimes leads to rabbits sold in pet stores to unsuitable owners (often just trying to keep a child happy!).
These poor bunnies are abandoned after the novelty wears off, confined to a rotten life in a tiny hutch before dying a premature death or being given up to shelters as adult rabbits.
You have probably heard us mention several times (all over this site) that there are enough rabbits in shelters all around the World looking for a loving home, so please consider this if you’re making a decision to breed your rabbit.
Depending on the pairs current living arrangements and location separating them up may be as simple as moving the doe in to a large puppy pen or splitting a hutch in two however you should ensure that all rabbits still have sufficient space to exercise and move around. (The doe needs at least an hours exercise every day, preferably unlimited if you have the space!).
If they are usually in very close proximity separation via a puppy pen or similar is ideal as it still allows them to interact with other, it will also mean they will maintain that strong bond, (that got them in this situation in the first place!).
In short removing the male to prevent a double pregnancy situation is therefore for your doe’s own good (and the good of all rabbit kind!) at least until her pregnancy is over.
Nutrition
In order to birth healthy kits, the next thing you can do for your doe is to ensure she has a healthy diet. As she is pregnant she will naturally need more nutrients. Failure to provide this to your doe during pregnancy can result in foetal reabsorption.
This occurs due to a poor or insufficient diet during a multi gestation pregnancy and may happen when one or more of the developing foetuses dies in the uterus, this can then be partially or completely reabsorbed as a means of making up for the nutritional deficiency.
While it’s important to give your doe the right nutrition diet changes should be introduced slowly. Rapid changes can be dangerous because they can affect the rabbit’s intestinal environment and the delicate flora that help the rabbit to digest her food can end up being toxic.
Rabbits often decide a preference to one particular type of food or vegetable so as owners we often buy what we know they are sure to like. However if you aren’t already doing so you need to ensure she is getting all the extra nutrients she needs for pregnancy.
If she is already happy and healthy just keep diet changes slight and pay attention to foods which may give her uncomfortable trapped wind (for our own rabbits this seems to be broccoli).
If you are making major diet changes as a result of trying to do your best for your doe during her pregnancy choose nutritious leafy greens such as curly kale, Cavelo Nero cabbage or spinach leaves supplemented with unlimited amounts of good quality timothy and alfalfa hay, pellets (alfalfa pellets are best during pregnancy) and of course an unlimited supply of fresh water and you’ll be well on your way to ensuring a healthy mum and babies.
Other good foods include carrots (in moderation), celery, cucumber and herbs like basil and parsley will provide enough variety to keep both her appetite and her unborn kits healthy (cut back on the herbs after the babies arrive as they may make her milk taste funny) and avoid lettuce as some types contain lactucarium, a chemical that can be harmful to your bunny’s health.
Provide a Nest Box
Your pregnant doe will eventually start making a nest. This usually occurs around 3 weeks in to a pregnancy however it could be anytime between 2 weeks after conception right up until a day or two before the birth of the kits (if she decides to leave it very late).
She should of course take care of this herself without too much help, however if your keen to keep the nest in a particular spot or quiet area you may help out by providing her with a nesting box.
Rabbits are quite helpless as babies. Other than the natural instinct to suckle, they are born hairless, blind and unable to regulate their own temperature (though fur and markings will start to show around day 3 and eyes will open at around 10 days). In contrast a leveret (a baby hare) is covered in hair at birth is able to survive away from its mum just an hour afterwards.
Rabbit mothers need to be much more protective of their young than hares. Mum will be covering them with hair pulled from her own stomach (and for wild rabbits, foliage) whenever she leaves the nest in order to hide them from potential predators and ensure they are sufficiently warm.
A nest box is useful as it allows you to ‘monitor’ the condition of the kits in one place. Encourage your doe to use the nesting box by providing hay and nesting materials. All being well the nest box will be the most comfortable place for her to give birth and look after the young.
Tips:
If you plan on breeding your doe in the future collect malted or fur gathered during grooming sessions from her in a polythene bag. Sometimes a doe will not have enough fur to cover the kits and provided this fur is from mum it can be used to keep the nest warm, just ensure you leave enough ventilation through the fur for the kits to be able to breathe.
If you usually use a water bowl it is possible for kits to wander off and unfortunately drown in a water bowl. When setting up the cage/nesting area for a pregnant doe switch the bowl to a much safer water bottle to ensure no unnecessary accidents. The added advantage of a nest box is that it will allow you to also keep the kits confined to the one area of the cage.
A nest box should be big enough for the doe to be able to turn around inside without having to get out to do so. You can build a nest box yourself fairly easily (we’ll be providing plans to make a nesting box in a future post which we will link here!) If you’re not confident that you can build this yourself we’ll also review some alternatives and link them here.
Once the nest box is in place, fill it with a thin layer of shavings plus hay. Leave it for a while and your rabbit will hopefully prepare this exactly how she wants it.
Kindling
Responsible rabbit owners and breeders should of course know what to expect when the rabbit goes into labour so that they can deal with any problems if they arise we’ll go into these later in this article, however birth problems are very rare in rabbits.
Rabbit labour (known as kindling) usually starts late at night or early morning with the kits appearing quickly within half an hour or so, however in rare cases it can sometimes take a couple of days before all kits are born.
Depending on if it was a planned breeding or if you have had a vet confirm the rabbits condition for you, you have a good idea of the expected due date. As this approaches it’s important to ensure that she has peace and quiet.
The area of her cage/pen and nest box should be kept at a comfortable temperature and noise from nearby televisions, stereos, children etc. should be considered if it may distract her. If you have other pets such as dogs and cats ensure they are kept out of the rabbit’s vicinity (even if she is usually fine with them) so that she is not nervous or accidentally startled during the process of giving birth. She may do harm her kits if she is.
She needs to feel completely at ease during kindling so that she can take care of the kits when they arrive. She will clean the babies and eat the placenta before jumping out. Some does will not nurse the kits until the next evening which will give you time to take a quick look and remove any dead kits. Always ensure your hands are cleaned thoroughly with an un fragranced hand wash before touching the nest especially if you own multiple rabbits as even though rabbits are generally good mums who will not harm the kits just because you have touched them, the smell of an un bonded or rival bunny may alarm her into aggressive behaviour.
In an ideal situation it would be best not to disturb the babies until they open their eyes but there are obviously some situations where handling the kits is necessary (such as in order to clean a smelly nesting box). For more information see our article on how to look after new born below.
We hope this article has given you some ideas of how you can support your doe through her pregnancy. If you would like information on any other aspect of a rabbit’s pregnancy or what to expect after, see our other articles on this subject linked below.
Or if you have any further questions on rabbit care or feel free to leave a comment!
How to Look After a New Born Baby Rabbit
How to Look After a Doe After Her Kits are Born
Looking after Mum
So your doe has just given birth! it’s an exciting time and although she’s more than capable of handling most things herself, she’s also lucky in that she has you to help her with any issues getting them through their most vulnerable stages.
With an obvious focus on the babies it can be easy to forget that mum has also been through a lot so if you would like more information on how you can help mum specifically follow our guide to looking after your doe post-pregnancy here.
Anyway, back to those beautiful kits and here is some important information to know along with some things you can help with when looking after newborn baby rabbits.
Mums General Behavior
Firstly, as you observe mums behavior after the birth of the kits, it’s natural to be concerned. Rabbits usually sit separate from their nests and won’t be spending a lot of time with the babies, in fact she will probably only nurse the kits once or twice a day before retreating away from the nest.
There is a good reason for this so don’t be fooled into thinking she is not a very good mother. Domesticated rabbits retain survival instincts passed down to them from their wild relatives and maintaining a distance from their nest of kits is in fact a way that the wild rabbit ensures its safety.
Adult rabbits unlike fresh young give off a strong scent which can be detected by predators while (youngsters have not yet developed this strong scent). The female is aware of this and sits a safe distance away so as not to alert a predator to its location, protecting the kits from the possibility of a terrible fate.
Obviously domesticated captive rabbits have less to fear but their instinct to protect their young is still very strong. Even if mum seems to be ignoring her kits rest assured that she is still keeping a watchful eye.
Another myth surrounding rabbit young is that the mother may eat the young if a human handles them, this is not true, domestic rabbits are good mothers and used to human contact. They will not harm the young for this reason alone.
That said, always keep an eye on how she behaves around her kits. Aggression (while rare) is not unheard of. In particular, never touch the nest or individual kits with the scent of a rival or unbonded rabbit on your hands, it might confuse her into displaying aggression towards the kits.
If your doe does show any aggression, separate her from the young until you can ascertain the cause. Assess environmental factors which might be causing the behavior such as excessive noise and see a vet if the behavior continues.
Checking The Kits
As mentioned in our article here following the birth your doe will clean the kits by eating the afterbirth and will jump out of the nest for a well earned rest. She may not return to nurse the kits until the next day, this is perfectly normal.
Note: that eating the afterbirth is a normal part of the birth even for herbivores. It allows them some much needed nutrients and should not be confused with the mother cannibalizing the babies. Rabbits will not usually cannibalize their young without good reason and will display their maternal instincts the moment they hear the noisy babies. Cannibalism is usually only the result of dead kits and is nature’s way of clearing up the mistake.
When mum does leave the nest, the first thing that you are going to want to do is check the litter to make sure that the kits are all ok. While it’s best to handle the kits as little as possible until they are able to leave the nest on their own, there are times when handling is necessary for the continued health of the kits, it’s therefore important to know how to handle them correctly.
Start by washing your hands with an unscented mild soap to avoid them becoming exposed to harmful bacteria before their immune systems have had the chance to develop. Also, avoid the urge to put them too close to your face where again they may again be exposed. This as a general rule up until about 10 days old when they will be a little stronger.
The doe will likely be sat away from the nest so when you approach her do so carefully and avoid sudden movement or noise which may frighten her. If she seems agitated calm her with a favorite treat and pet her (this will also pick up some of her own scent).
Carefully pick up the kits and check each baby carefully for signs of injury. Sadly it’s not uncommon to find some dead kits. If this is the case remove them from the nest and dispose of them, if you decide to bury them it is a good idea to cover up the spot with a large rock to prevent predators digging them up (don’t be sad, on the positive side rabbits birth large litters and good news for us bunny enthusiasts is that they are extremely unlikely candidates for extinction!).
Cleaning a Nest Box
Aside from checking you will need to handle the kits when the nest box needs a clean for hygiene or odour reasons. It’s almost certain that the rabbits nesting box will become smelly, the newborns won’t have much control of their bodily functions (rabbits in general seem to produce an endless supply of poop!).
The kits developing immune and digestive systems will need certain bacteria from mum but you don’t want the nestbox to become damp, after all you want the kits to remain warm and dry.
When cleaning the nest box remove the kits and put them on some warm soft fabric such as a fleece blanket to keep them comfortable (don’t be surprised to be urinated or pooped on and be aware that kits may suddenly try to leap from your hand).
Carefully remove the existing nest material and put it aside. If you have followed our article here the nest will probably be sitting on a layer of shavings so if these are wet they will need replacing. For extra absorption you can line the floor of the nest box with newspaper before replacing the shavings.
Retain as much of the original nest as possible but remove any pellets that mum may have left during feeding. Put some fresh hay into the nest box area and replace the nest, put the kits back in and cover them with mums fur (you may have extra collected if you have followed the tip from our article here!).
As a general rule and until they can leave the nest box of their own accord, try to avoid keeping babies out of the nest for anything longer than a few minutes at a time. Young hairless kits in particular will get cold very quickly.
When kits are taken out of the nest and away from their siblings they will be expending energy usually reserved for development in order to keep warm (warmth is also used to keep their digestive systems moving to absorb the nutrients from the does rich milk).
Check the cleanliness of the nest box daily and clean when it becomes overly messy. When the kits reach about 2 weeks of age you can remove the nest box, they have an increased risk of issues such as eye infections if they are in there for too long.
Eye Opening
Providing there are no issues baby rabbits will open their eyes between 9 and 11 days old and will also be able to hear. Eye infections are common in rabbits and if the eyes are not open by 12 days then steps should be taken to assist them.
Fill a bowl with some lukewarm water and soak a soft clean tea towel. Ensure the baby is warm before removing from the nest and carefully dab the eyelid with the cloth, be sure that the water soaks through but be careful not to saturate the fur otherwise the kit may get cold.
Re-warm the water if necessary and repeat this process for 10 minutes or so.
If you have access to sterile water (contact lens solution) this can be used as an alternative to warm water.
Whichever process you carry out the eyes should open within a day or two (if not immediately) however take the baby to a vet as a matter of urgency if this is not the case.
Male Behavior Around Kits
While you or your doe won’t necessarily want him around during and immediately after the birth male rabbits provided they are neutered before putting back in with the female will be tolerant of young babies and in most cases will be safe to remain with his new family. He will however become increasingly aggressive towards the youngsters as they approach puberty, and will see them as direct competition for the doe. Separating the young males from the buck then becomes a necessity to prevent him from injuring the youngsters.
Feeding Mum
If you have read our article about how to look after a pregnant rabbit here you will understand the importance of healthy nutrition for your doe throughout her pregnancy and as she nurses her kits.
As well as a selection of healthy vegetables mum should be eating alfalfa pellets and alfalfa hay which has great benefits to a nursing doe. Alfalfa is high in fibre, packed with calcium and is a source of digestible protein.
The high fibre content makes it an ideal food choice which perfectly fits with the does dietary requirements and assists her in the production of a rich nutrient packed milk.
After nursing ends at around 2 months of age, the doe may be left underweight. Continue to feed her with a diet high in alfalfa to increase her weight back to a satisfactory level.
Once this is reached slowly transition her off alfalfa hay and pellets to timothy hay by gradually adding more of the new hay/pellets to her diet.
Note: Most importantly always provide unlimited water for your doe!
Feeding the Kits
Just as important as keeping mum well nourished, It’s crucial to ensure she is feeding her kits regularly. Weighing the kits at the earliest opportunity with an accurate digital scale (ideally when you check their condition after birth) is a good way to monitor their progress.
As mentioned most mums won’t check on their infants constantly however they will return to nurse them once (maybe twice) per day. Remember to ensure that the nest location is nice and quiet so the doe is not put off returning to feed her kits.
When nursing, your doe will stand in an upright position to allow the kits access. The kits will get under her by lying on their backs before attaching themselves to her nipples.
Each kit will feed for just a few minutes. While this might not seem sufficient, mums milk is very rich and nutritious (providing you have given her the correct nutrition throughout her pregnancy).
When she finishes nursing, be conscious that she may attempt to jump out of the nest before all kits have had a chance to detach. If she does you will need to handle the kits to put them back in the nest as mum will not be able to do this herself.
It’s a good idea to observe her during feeding times and ensure this does not occur. Kits outside of the nest will lose heat quickly and won’t survive outside for long without the heat of the nest and their siblings.
Note that there is also a possibility (be it very small) that if you have water bowls in the cage that babies dragged outside the nest may accidentally fall victim to an unfortunate accident, as such consider removing bowls in favor of bottles whenever young kits are nearby.
How to Know if Your Doe is Lactating
The easiest way to know if mum is lactating is to watch a feeding session and examine the young after, however, be prepared to be up early as the usual mealtime is between midnight and 5 am.
After nursing, well fed kits should have plump tummies. If the kits appear to be attempting to feed however their stomachs do not seem full it may be necessary to check the mum to ensure that she is producing milk, also remember that females only have 8 nipples so in cases of large litters it may simply be that there are not enough nipples for all the kits.
Upon inspection kits who are not feeding may appear to be very weak, in contrast to well fed kits they will have sunken stomachs and wrinkled skin due to dehydration. If you are concerned about any kits not being fed, it may be necessary to see a vet. In some cases a drug can be administered to the rabbit to stimulate milk production.
Exercising Babies
When babies get to around 2 weeks old you can give them some supervised exercise. This can take place in a run or puppy pen however ensure that the area is completely predator proof (baby rabbits make easy food for birds of prey, snakes and any other number of predators. Also just as important is to ensure that there are no gaps that they may squeeze through and escape.
Around this time you can also remove the nest box from the cage, however, in doing so, you’ll find that the kits will chase mum around for food constantly. Help mum by providing somewhere she can away if she wants some peace (a platformed area that the kits cannot follow her on to is a good idea to help relieve her stress).
Nail Clipping
Your doe will obviously be spending time with your kits when she feeds them and while she probably won’t sit down in the nest as a chicken would, she will stay in to lick them clean and stimulate pooping and peeing. Although a relatively short time is spent with the kits there is a slight risk of her stepping on or over them. This isn’t necessarily an issue however just to be on the safe side and avoid accidental injury always keep her nails trimmed if they are excessively long.
Nursing
Your doe will nurse the kits for approximately 8 weeks however her milk production will slow down at around weeks 4 -5 in order to wean the kits onto more solid foods. The kits can also be fed some kale from around week 4 which is calcium and nutrient-rich and will help with their development however as with all new foods introduce these gradually to avoid digestive problems.
It is often advised that lettuce can be fed however lettuce is very high in water and has very little nutritional value for kits. If you do decide to feed lettuce, avoid iceberg which is harmful as it contains lactucarium and monitor the kits to ensure that they do not experience any diahorrea due to the high water content.
Kits will also eat grass of course if they are placed outside (in a run) however never feed grass cuttings as they go rotten quickly once cut. Kits may stop nursing at around 7 – 8 weeks of age although some kits may continue to try and nurse. Separate the kits from the doe from around 8 weeks and continue to feed them alfalfa hay and pellets until they are around 8 months old in order to build their overall health, they can then be transitioned on to (an unlimited supply of) timothy hay and conventional foods.
Make sure you also separate the sexes before they reach sexual maturity around 3-4 months of age.
Abandonment & Orphans
Occasionally young and immature does will go through a pregnancy without carrying out any preparation for the imminent birth of their young, no nest will be built and her milk production may also be delayed.
Before you panic, It’s important to know that even in the case of young doe’s, females will rarely completely abandon their kits, and even if she has not made a nest by the time the kits arrive, in most cases as soon as she sees and hears the squeaking of the babies her maternal instincts will likely kick in.
There are however rare instances whereby mum will show no interest in her babies even after birth or worse still, a difficult labour may kill a doe leaving her unfortunate orphaned kits behind.
In these very sad cases, you may be left with no other choice than to attempt to hand feed them however note that rearing rabbits from birth is rarely successful without prior experience.
Feeding difficulties such as inhaling milk into the lungs while drinking too fast from a syringe or bottle often leads to the kit developing and consequently dying from pneumonia, while milk replacement formulas are an imperfect and of course inferior substitute for a doe’s milk which may also lead to health issues and death.
If you are left with no alternative but to attempt hand feeding seek the advice of a qualified rabbit savvy vet beforehand or alternatively contact a rescue centre to see if they are available to take the kits in. If you are keen to take on the daunting task yourself a rescue centre may also be able to offer advice on a feeding method which will give you a better chance of some of the kits surviving.
Another alternative is to note that a litter has a much greater chance of survival if adopted by another doe.
If you have one available with a very young litter of her own you can encourage the doe to adopt the orphaned litter by placing them in her nest however ensure that she is not nursing an already large litter which may leave her available milk insufficient to feed her own kits.
If you do find yourself in a situation whereby you will be hand-rearing orphaned kits, expect losses and for them to be dependent on you until they are around 4 and a half weeks of age, (around the same length of time that it would have taken for mum to get pregnant and have another litter!).
Summary
It’s great fun to have baby bunnies around but also a lot of work especially for your doe so remember to help her out as much as you can.
While this article covers some of the basics of newborn rabbit care remember keeping rabbits is a constant (but fortunately rewarding) education and we rabbit owners can always learn more to help us give our rabbits the best life possible.
Finally spend as much time as you can with the babies yourself to help them get used to human contact, remember at the rate rabbits grow they won’t be tiny handfuls of joy forever!
Looking after Kits
Your female has had a difficult month. From frantically creating a warm and cosy nest for her young kits to spend their early days in, to going through labour, it’s obviously going to have had an effect on her. Of course she will continue to work hard for her kits over the next couple of months but rather than leave her to it, as her owner you can help to make the next couple of months a bit easier, follow our article here for some advice. Not forgetting mum though and there are some notes on rabbit pregnancy aftercare which may help you to look after your doe after her experience of pregnancy.
Feeding
Nursing kits will take a lot out of mum over the next couple of months and if you want to avoid her losing too much weight it’s important to make sure that she is getting the best diet to keep her healthy, she may even cannibalize her kits if she is not getting all the necessary nutrients from you however this is very rare and usually malnutrition is not the only cause.
More often than not this occurs when a kit is stillborn, as well as nutrition it may also be the way that a doe corrects or tries to hide her ‘mistake’. As distressing as this may be to see, the important thing to remember is to be sympathetic to the doe (as upsetting as it may be, she will have her reasons for the seemingly strange behavior).
When making changes to a rabbit’s diet these should be introduced gradually, quick changes are not recommended as it can affect the rabbit’s intestinal environment.
Hopefully you will have adjusted your doe’s diet accordingly when she first became pregnant, if this is the case she’ll have got used to changes already.
Your Doe should be provided with fresh nutritious leafy greens every day, which can be fed throughout the day.
Ensure they are fresh out of the fridge and they are not sitting around too long (greens can go off quite quickly at room temperatures) as well as an unlimited supply of fresh alfalfa hay, pellets and most importantly fresh water.
This is everything she needs to provide nutritious milk for her kits and keep her contented.
Monitor her when giving greens to ensure her faeces do not become soft, aside from caecotrophs which you won’t likely see anyway 9as she will eat these directly from her anus), her poops should be normal, if they are too runny, cut back on the greens and feed her more hay.
While pregnancy would have taken it out of her, nursing the new born kits will increase her need for calories even more so, therefore dependent on her size already you may increase her intake slightly to take account of this fact.
Larger litters in particular could leave her looking rather skinny after 8 weeks of nursing so monitor her weight as well as the kits to ensure she’s not losing too much.
Likewise weigh the kits daily to ensure they are also steadily gaining weight. Feed her twice a day with a mix of nutritious greens, alfalfa hay and pellets as well as the occasional treat (rather than rich processed treats consider small pieces of carrot).
As mentioned in our article here, avoid strong smelling herbs which may have an effect on the flavour of her milk.
Also ensure water provided to the doe is in a bottle rather than a bowl, kits may occasionally climb out of the nest (or be dragged out on one of mums nipples) and can drown if they are unfortunate enough to fall into a water bowl.
Exercising
Aside from feeding, the mother will not be spending too much time with her babies, which means you can let her have plenty of exercise time. As does usually feed their kits during the early hours, this shouldn’t interrupt her normal routine at all.
Give the doe as much freedom as possible, at the very least she should have an hour a day to exercise. If she normally lives in a hutch put her in a secure garden or run or take her somewhere new to explore (even a room in the house where she hasn’t been before can give her hours of enjoyment).
Wherever you decide to put her, carry out a ‘risk assessment’ of the location first hand and ensure she will be secure and safe from hazards. If you are allowing her the run of a room in your house do a quick scout and ensure there is nothing that might fall and injure her.
Check there are no exposed live electrical wires she might chew (the very last thing you want is to have to raise orphaned kits!).
Health Issues
There are a few health issues associated with pregnant or lactating rabbits that you should be aware of, these problems can be fatal if you don’t immediately respond to the symptoms.
Mastitis
This is a condition which affects the rabbits mammary glands and occurs when bacteria gets into the glands through the milk duct. It can occur as the result of an unhygienic environment which is why it’s very important to ensure her environment is as clean as possible before and after she gives birth.
An infected gland can also pass infection poisoned milk to a kit which tragically can also be fatal for the kit.
Signs of this condition are usually loss of appetite, general discomfort and a high temperature as well as prominent swelling or redness of the nipple(s). In severe cases the nipples may appear blue. If any of these symptoms are displayed you should take her to a reliable vet for immediate treatment.
Pregnancy toxaemia (ketosis)
Also known as ketosis, this usually occurs in the last week of a doe’s pregnancy. It is a serious condition caused by a dysregulation of the energy metabolism in a rabbit suffering from a phantom pregnancy or a pregnant doe during the last week of gestation.
Overweight does are usually more prone with the probable major cause being factors which limit the rabbit’s nutrient intake such as a hairball. Other causes are stress, and loss of appetite. When carbohydrate energy declines, body fat is mobilized for energy, and ketone bodies are produced and enter the bloodstream. The liver then becomes fatty.
Symptoms usually appear few days before or right after the birth and are a result of a high nutritional demand and the conditions that limit intake of the required nutrients. Sign of this disease are dullness of the eyes, weakness, depression, lethargy, respiratory problems and even convulsions.
A visit to the vet is usually the best course of action as if left untreated the rabbit may pass in 4 days or less. Treatment with an IV drip and dextrose is an effective treatment.
Pampering
Remember your doe has been through a tough time. Just as humans like to unwind, perhaps with a massage or facial your doe will probably appreciate some pampering herself!
As beautiful as the kits are, ensure you give your doe lots of attention also. In terms of pampering a rabbit, this involves lots of brushing and petting. If she is a longer-haired breed, this may also involve carefully pulling knots that may have formed around the back of her neck and flanks. We’ll be going through some of our favorite rabbit brushes in a future post!
Remember that does can also injure kits if her nails aren’t trimmed so make this part of her pampering session (no nail polish though! Lol)
Finally, unless you’re a breeder, consider getting your doe spayed to prevent future pregnancy, rabbits breed…. well like rabbits and with so many rabbits already in shelters, rabbits really do not need any extra help to increase their population!
